Leno & gauze with color and design

14 January 2015

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Leno ( or gauze when used extensively) is a common technique used on the backstrap looms here.  Yesterday I showed pictures of a shawl with lines of leno used to frame a brocade block.  Today while looking at huipils I  saw this band of gauze where the warp is natural and the weft is purple for a very different look.
I’m not sure how the zigzag design is made, just  that it involves a different twist, probably no twist.  I’ll have to try things on the loom to see if I can duplicate it.   But just introducing the colored weft is just the one of the decorative use of leno.  Here is a variation with no skipped twists, but discontinuous weft  in variegated pink.

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There are also huipils with gauze with weft of the same color as the warp but with an additional weft making a brocade on gauze.

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Here the warp and ground weft are black and a white supplementary weft has been added to create the flower motif.  The white was the easiest to photograph but colors are more common and you can see a bit of color at the bottom. This is a technique is common in Amuzgo textiles.  I have seen some with a more complex arrangement of twists done in very fine yarns making some very amazing cloth.

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