Leno & gauze with color and design

14 January 2015


Leno ( or gauze when used extensively) is a common technique used on the backstrap looms here.  Yesterday I showed pictures of a shawl with lines of leno used to frame a brocade block.  Today while looking at huipils I  saw this band of gauze where the warp is natural and the weft is purple for a very different look.
I’m not sure how the zigzag design is made, just  that it involves a different twist, probably no twist.  I’ll have to try things on the loom to see if I can duplicate it.   But just introducing the colored weft is just the one of the decorative use of leno.  Here is a variation with no skipped twists, but discontinuous weft  in variegated pink.


There are also huipils with gauze with weft of the same color as the warp but with an additional weft making a brocade on gauze.


Here the warp and ground weft are black and a white supplementary weft has been added to create the flower motif.  The white was the easiest to photograph but colors are more common and you can see a bit of color at the bottom. This is a technique is common in Amuzgo textiles.  I have seen some with a more complex arrangement of twists done in very fine yarns making some very amazing cloth.


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